Tuesday, 11 September 2007

Palmerston Atoll

We were awoken from our deep sleep by an unrecognisable noise. Looking out of the bedroom port hole a humpback whale (3 meters from the boat) was giving us a personal welcome to Palmerston! This place was going to be magical.Unable to leave the boat until we were checked by customs & immigration we set to work on making repairs & putting the boat back into order.

Palmerston has a unique history. William Masters (an English guy) settled on the deserted island with 3 wives from the local islands with whom he had 26 children. The island is divided into 3 sections for the 3 families, they even have 3 separate graveyards!

In 2007 the island remains occupied by only the Masters Family. 68 family members live on the island & many more are living on nearby islands & in New Zealand. There are strict rules regarding intermarriage but there were more stutters & squint eyes than is average amongst 68 people.

It really is an amazing place & takes a while to get your head around the fact that everyone is related, sometimes even twice. Can any of you imagine living on an island with only your extended families?? An island for the Roberts Family…..members of the extended Roberts family I will leave it up to you to decide if it would be a good thing or not!! ; )

The different families compete to “host” you. We will admit to being sceptical, wondering what they wanted in return. The truth is they just want your friendship & company. They never asked for any money or goods but on hearing that their supply boat had been delayed (it arrives once every 3 months & it is presently it is 3 months overdue – no supplies for the last 6 months!) I emptied our cupboards of what we could spare & Bobby handed over fuel. Other “yachties” (this is what they call us!) were able to assist with repairs to generators, electrics etc. Daniela (s/v Iataia), an architect, spent an entire day drawing up the plans for a house whilst her husband calculated the materials required.

The families ferried us to & from the island where they fed us, sharing the supplies of food we had given them, gave us tours of the island, played volleyball & took us fishing. The head of our host family, Edward, was the islands policeman & yes he has had to arrest family members! They were generous in everyway possible way & we thoroughly enjoyed our time with the Masters family.